Back to Home

Welcome to the Northern Shores of São Paulo
Caraguatatuba Ilhabela São Sebastião Ubatuba

Welcome  | Culinary | History | Legends | Yachting | Fishes | Pirates | Rio-Santos | Access | Satellite Image

Presentation "Caiçara Cuisine": The flavour of the sea Events
The Region:
Yachting Map
Satellite Map
Access Roads

The Cities:

Choosing a place for eating out depends on the mood and appetite. Appeasing the hunger after the beach, avoiding stove and dirty dishes, requires an easy going hangout, airy, no shirt needed. At night, strolling around in style with the family almosts obliges the desmembering of a tasty pizza. If the intention is a twosome errand, one finds a discreet and cozy place hidden on a beach or in a quiet backstreet. Those who can't live without a burger or beer and snacks, rely on kiosks, bars and diners. There are fine options for everyone on the northern shores. Check the alternatives in each town. Eating out or munching at home, the northern shores are a privileged place to guarantee excellent cuisine options. All kinds of fish and seafood, an almost colonial styled agriculture with homemade and tasty manioc and wheat flour, enormous cattle herds in Caraguatatuba and towns up in the sierra like Paraibuna and São Luiz do Paraitinga. Bean plantations, fresh vegetables from small farms all around. Health and flavour at will.

Old fashioned hospitality

When the region still had no outstanding restaurants like today, the local Caiçaras and travelers carried their own lunch on the long trips by canoe or on foot. In those times they were received with coffee, bananas and affection.
Everyone knew each other, from Bertioga to Paraty. On the trips by canoe, before the arrival of roads and tourism, somebody was always the son of Mrs. Soandso or cousin of you know whom .In that small world around the old northern shores, the old habits of hospitality handed over from father to son were followed and resulted in the present friendly and professionalized reception by the hotels, campings and lodges of today.
Concerned about not bothering others, the Caiçara carried his own food. Since fridges were unknown, he used salt as the main conservant for fish, basic item of his nourishment followed by bananas and manioc or corn flour. His cuisine mixed portuguese and native habits, with almost no influence from the afro-americans. With the beginning of the cultivation of sugar cane, there came the booze and the slaves with their african recipes. By the way, Paraty became a synonym for booze ( Cachaça).
The poet Oswald de Andrade once wrote: " At Princess Isabels party, the Count D'Eu said: flour from Suruí, booze from Paraty, tobacco from Baependí its eating, drinking, smoking and stumbling "( Sorry, it doesn't rhyme in English !)

White Man's Food

By the time of Brazils discovery the natives tasted the white man's food. They didn't like it! According to Pero Vaz de Caminha , two tupi indians were taken to the expeditions flagship and received in person by Pedro Alvares Cabral, Brazils official discoverer . They proved cooked fish, cookies and "fartéis" (delicate sweets wrapped in wheat dough), honey and dried figs. They ate almost nothing. When they tasted something they immediately spat it out. They didn't even liked the wine.
On the other hand, the Portuguese appreciated the shrimps that they alreday knew,but never seen so big. With the implantation of roads the regional habits changed a lot but are still preserved in the more isolated communities The change of habits also extinguished the "tanajura"or "iça", a delicacy praised by our grandparents and despised nowadays. The writer Monteiro Lobato once joked: " The roasted içá is what in the Olympus was called ambrosia ". (Believe it or not, "iça" and "tanajura" are leaf-cutter ants !!)
Traditional dishes can be appreciated in the hoses of the old local families and in the good "caiçara" restaurants. Fish cooked blue, with bananas; shrimps "à la paulistinha", showders and stews make everyone happy. Sweets made with bananas, sophisticated icecreams, there's no lack of variety in the northern shores rich cuisine and the exotic flavours served by the international restaurants that are sprinkled over the shores and cities downtowns.

Clam culture

The shellfish species embodies snails, oysters, clams ,mussels, squids and octopus although the latter don't have shells. Thanks to the Fishing Institute in Ubatuba, the growth of mussels was recovered. Based on the experience of the Galician hatcheries in northern Spain, the biologists developed a feasable technology. Today there are producers on beaches like Pulso, Enseada and Ubatumirim.
The collecting of eggs is done with submerged pallets. The cultivation recovered the natural shell banks. Today mussels and clams are back on the local menu recovering the traditional consumption of this delicate and tasty dish.
In the good restaurants or at the kiosks by the waterfront the mussel is served in its shell with seasonings or in chowders and pasta, always a good call followed by the simply unavoidable icecold beer.

Welcome  | Culinary | History | Legends | Yachting | Fishes | Pirates | Rio-Santos | Access | Satellite Image

Caraguatatuba Ilhabela São Sebastião Ubatuba


Home Virtual Seaside - Home Page
The most complete site about São Paulo's northern shores in the Web
For suggestions, comments and information contact us at:
©1995/2010 Emilio Campi - Studio Maranduba Web Design - All rights reserved
Total or partial reproduction forbidden without prior consent by the author

Sites do grupo: Litoral Virtual - Jornal Maranduba - PanoTour - Caraguá - Maranduba - Maré Legal - Truckmodelismo Brasil - ECampi